That Passport Life with Kevin McCullough

Back To Bouloud

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There are restaurants that work hard to convince you they are special. Then there are restaurants where, within moments of being seated, you simply know.

Café Boulud is firmly the latter.

Daniel Boulud’s Upper East Side institution has been part of New York’s dining conversation since 1998, returning in its current incarnation at 100 East 63rd Street in late 2023. Today, Executive Chef Romain Paumier works alongside Boulud, continuing the restaurant’s four culinary inspirations: La Tradition, La Saison, Le Potager and Le Voyage—French tradition, seasonality, the garden, and flavors gathered from around the world. 

And the credentials aren’t merely historic. Café Boulud⁠ currently holds one Michelin star, with Michelin praising its “sharp execution” and singling out several dishes remarkably similar to those we enjoyed: black sea bass wrapped in crispy potatoes, seared scallops and lobster ravioli. The restaurant also landed on Forbes’ 2025 All-Star Eateries list, while Bon Appétit spotlighted one of its Michelin-starred dishes this spring. 

So expectations were not exactly low when three colleagues from the media world and I settled in for dinner this week.

Our table sat opposite one of the loveliest grand pianos I’ve encountered in a restaurant, with a sight line toward the legendary cocktail bar beyond. And everything felt unmistakably Boulud: colors, lighting, textures, proportions. Nothing screamed for attention. Everything seemed precisely where it belonged. The current space was designed by Jeffrey Beers and marries contemporary Upper East Side elegance with Art Deco influences. 

Then came the food.

We began communally—and ambitiously—with the hamachi, tuna and avocado tartare, lobster ravioli, and beautifully prepared scallops. Each disappeared with alarming efficiency.

Sharing became considerably less fashionable when the entrées arrived.

The black sea bass, enclosed in its delicate armor of crisp potato, was extraordinary. Around the table came filet tournedos, shrimp risotto, and a deeply satisfying chicken and pork sausage preparation. Every plate displayed that particular Boulud characteristic: sophistication without culinary gymnastics merely for the sake of showing off.

An incredible bottle of Tuscan Italian red carried us through dinner, following Negroni Sbagliatos earlier in the evening. Espresso martinis provided the punctuation mark.

And dessert?

Defeat.

We simply couldn’t do it.

This was especially regrettable considering Café Boulud has a dedicated pastry program led by Pastry Chef Deoana Romero.  But after appetizers passed around the table, entrées we decidedly didn’t pass around, wine and cocktails, surrender became the only sensible option.

Perhaps my favorite element of the evening, though, was what happened between the plates.

The service was attentive without becoming intrusive. The room was elegant without feeling stiff. And the relaxed pace allowed four media people—who ordinarily possess no shortage of things to say—to let the conversation wander, deepen, erupt in laughter, and then wander somewhere else entirely.

That’s what inspired dining can do.

Food becomes the catalyst. The room becomes the setting. And somewhere along the way, dinner becomes a memory.

Was Café Boulud absolutely perfect?

Not quite.

4.83 stars out of 5.

But goodness, 4.83 is awfully close.

 

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